How to Choose a Foundation Repair Contractor

· By FoundationCosts.com Editorial Team

Choosing the wrong foundation repair contractor is one of the most expensive mistakes a homeowner can make. Foundation work is not like painting a room or replacing a faucet — a bad job does not just look wrong, it can leave your home’s structural integrity compromised, void your warranty, and cost you tens of thousands of dollars to redo. The stakes are high, and the industry has enough bad actors to make careful selection essential.

This guide walks you through every step of finding, evaluating, and selecting a foundation repair contractor: what qualifications to look for, what red flags to avoid, the specific questions to ask, how to compare bids and warranties, and how to protect yourself through the contract and payment process.

Start with a Structural Engineering Assessment

Before you even contact a repair contractor, consider getting an independent assessment from a licensed structural engineer. This step costs $300 to $800 but is the single most valuable thing you can do to protect yourself. Here is why:

It gives you a baseline diagnosis. When you call foundation repair companies for estimates, you will be getting a diagnosis and a sales pitch simultaneously. A structural engineer has no financial interest in recommending repairs — they diagnose the problem and specify the solution, and you take that specification to contractors for competitive bids.

It levels the playing field. With an engineer’s report in hand, you are asking contractors to bid on a defined scope of work. Without it, each contractor defines their own scope, and you end up comparing apples to oranges — one company recommends 8 piers, another recommends 14, and you have no idea who is right.

It gives you leverage. If a contractor tries to upsell you on unnecessary work, you have an independent expert’s opinion to push back with.

For a detailed guide on this process, read our foundation inspection guide.

What Qualifications to Look For

Not all foundation repair companies are equally qualified. Here is the minimum bar you should set.

Licensing

Every state has different licensing requirements for foundation repair contractors. At minimum, your contractor should hold:

  • A general contractor license or specialty structural/foundation license valid in your state
  • Any required specialty endorsements — some states require specific certifications for pier installation, helical anchors, or deep foundation work
  • Workers’ compensation insurance — required in most states for companies with employees
  • General liability insurance — minimum $1 million per occurrence, $2 million aggregate

How to verify: Every state has a contractor licensing board with an online lookup tool. Search for your state’s board at your state government website or ask the contractor for their license number and verify it yourself. Do not take their word for it — actually look it up.

For specific licensing requirements and regulatory bodies by state, check our state cost pages which include links to each state’s licensing board.

Industry Certifications and Affiliations

Certifications are not a guarantee of quality, but they indicate a company that invests in professional standards and continuing education.

  • Foundation Supportworks or similar manufacturer network membership — Companies that are authorized dealers for major pier system manufacturers (Foundation Supportworks, Ram Jack, ECP — Earth Contact Products, Grip-Tite) receive manufacturer training and must meet quality standards.
  • International Association of Foundation Drilling (ADSC) membership — Relevant for companies doing deep foundation work.
  • Better Business Bureau (BBB) accreditation — An A+ BBB rating with accreditation means the company has agreed to BBB standards and responds to complaints. A non-accredited company with an A+ rating simply means few complaints have been filed. Check the company’s BBB profile for complaint patterns, not just the letter grade.

Experience and Track Record

Foundation repair is highly specialized. Look for:

  • Minimum 5 years in business under the current company name. New companies or frequent name changes can indicate a pattern of poor work and rebranding.
  • Experience with your specific foundation type. A company that primarily repairs slab-on-grade homes may not be the best choice for a pier-and-beam home, and vice versa.
  • Experience with the recommended repair method. If you need helical piers, hire a company that installs helical piers every week, not one that does it occasionally.
  • Verifiable project portfolio. Ask for photos and addresses of completed projects similar to yours. A reputable company will be proud to show their work.

Red Flags: Warning Signs of a Bad Contractor

Foundation repair attracts some of the most aggressive sales tactics in the home services industry. Be alert to these warning signs.

High-Pressure Sales Tactics

  • “This price is only good today.” Legitimate foundation problems do not become more expensive overnight (in most cases). A company that pressures you into signing immediately does not want you to get competing estimates.
  • “Sign today and we’ll take 20% off.” If they can do the work for 20% less, they should have quoted that price in the first place. This tactic exploits urgency and discourages comparison shopping.
  • Exaggerated urgency. “Your house could collapse” or “This will cost twice as much if you wait 6 months.” While some foundation problems are genuinely urgent, most are chronic conditions that have been developing for years. A few weeks to get second opinions will not change anything.

Diagnostic Red Flags

  • No measurements taken. Any legitimate foundation assessment requires measured floor elevations — typically using a manometer, laser level, or digital altimeter. A company that walks through your home, looks at some cracks, and declares you need 10 piers without taking a single measurement is guessing.
  • Diagnosis before inspection. If a salesperson starts talking about piering on the phone before seeing your home, they are selling a product, not diagnosing a problem.
  • Dramatically different diagnosis from competitors. If three companies say you need 8 to 10 piers and one says you need 22, something is wrong. The outlier may be recommending unnecessary work.

Business Red Flags

  • No physical office. A company that operates entirely from trucks and cannot provide a verifiable business address raises serious concerns about longevity and accountability.
  • No written estimate. Every estimate should be a detailed written document specifying the exact work, materials, timeline, cost, and warranty. A verbal estimate or a handwritten number on a business card is unacceptable.
  • Requesting large upfront payments. A 10 to 15 percent deposit or material advance is reasonable. A request for 50 percent or more before work begins is a warning sign.
  • Cannot provide proof of insurance. Ask for a certificate of insurance and verify it with the insurance carrier, not just a printout the contractor gives you.
  • Reluctance to pull permits. If your local jurisdiction requires permits for foundation work and the contractor suggests skipping them “to save you money,” walk away. Unpermitted work creates liability and disclosure issues when you sell.

Questions to Ask Every Contractor

When you meet with contractors for estimates, ask these questions and evaluate their answers carefully.

About the Problem

  1. What specifically is wrong with my foundation? The answer should be detailed and specific — “differential settlement of approximately 1.5 inches along the south wall, likely caused by soil consolidation” — not vague — “your foundation is sinking.”

  2. What is causing the problem? The cause determines the correct repair method. If the contractor cannot articulate the cause, they cannot guarantee the fix.

  3. Is the movement active or has it stabilized? This affects whether immediate repair is necessary or monitoring is appropriate. A contractor who cannot answer this question is not performing a thorough assessment.

  4. Can you show me the elevation data? If they did not take measurements, this is a major red flag.

About the Repair

  1. What repair method do you recommend and why? The answer should reference your specific conditions — soil type, foundation type, extent of movement — not just “we always use push piers.”

  2. How many piers (or anchors, or injections) are needed, and where will they go? Ask them to mark the locations on a diagram or on your home. This becomes your basis for comparing bids.

  3. What brand and specification of pier system will you use? Not all piers are the same. Ask for the manufacturer’s name, the pier diameter, wall thickness, and capacity rating. Established brands include Foundation Supportworks, Ram Jack, ECP (Earth Contact Products), and Grip-Tite.

  4. Will you attempt to lift the foundation or just stabilize it? Stabilization prevents further settling. Lifting (also called releveling) attempts to return the foundation to its original position. Lifting is more involved, carries more risk, and not all situations warrant it.

  5. What is the expected timeline from start to finish? See our guide on how long foundation repair takes for reference timelines.

About the Warranty

  1. What exactly does your warranty cover? Get the specific language. “Lifetime warranty” means nothing without understanding what it covers and what it excludes.

  2. Does the warranty cover both materials and labor? Some warranties cover only the pier or anchor hardware, not the labor to service it. A warranty that covers replacement parts but not the cost to excavate and install them is nearly worthless.

  3. Is the warranty transferable to a new owner? If you sell your home, a transferable warranty adds significant value. Non-transferable warranties provide zero benefit to future owners and can actually hurt your resale value.

  4. Is the warranty backed by the manufacturer, the installer, or both? The strongest warranties have dual backing — the pier manufacturer warrants the hardware and the installing contractor warrants the workmanship. If the contractor goes out of business, the manufacturer warranty still stands.

  5. What would void the warranty? Common exclusions include: failure to maintain drainage, new construction or additions that add load, natural disasters, and plumbing leaks. Know the exclusions upfront.

About the Company

  1. How long has your company been in business under this name? Long track records matter in an industry where companies frequently rebrand after accumulating complaints.

  2. Can you provide 5 references from similar projects completed in the last 2 years? Ask for projects similar to yours in scope and method. Then actually call the references.

  3. Who will supervise the work on my property? A named foreman or project manager should be assigned to your job. Ask about their experience and whether they will be on site every day.

  4. Do you carry workers’ compensation and general liability insurance? Ask for a current certificate of insurance.

How to Compare Bids

Once you have 3 estimates (the recommended minimum), compare them systematically.

Create a Comparison Matrix

Line up the estimates side by side and compare:

FactorCompany ACompany BCompany C
Diagnosis???
Recommended method???
Number of piers/anchors???
Pier brand and specs???
Stabilize or lift????
Timeline???
Total cost???
Warranty type???
Warranty duration???
Warranty transferable????
Warranty backed by????
Payment terms???
Permits included????

What to Do When Bids Differ Significantly

If the estimates vary by more than 20 to 30 percent, investigate why:

  • Different diagnoses. If companies disagree on what is wrong, get an independent structural engineer’s opinion ($300 to $800) to resolve the disagreement.
  • Different methods. One company may recommend push piers while another recommends helical piers. Both may be valid — ask each company why they chose their method and research the difference. Our repair methods compared guide can help.
  • Different scope. One company may include more piers, drainage work, or cosmetic restoration that another excludes. Make sure you are comparing the full scope, not just the bottom-line number.
  • Different quality levels. Not all pier systems are equivalent. A quote using heavy-wall steel piers from a major manufacturer will be higher than one using thin-wall generic piers. The cheaper piers may be adequate, but understand what you are getting.

The Lowest Bid Is Not Always the Best Value

In foundation repair, the cheapest bid is often the most expensive in the long run. A contractor who underbids may:

  • Use inferior materials to maintain margins
  • Employ less experienced crews
  • Cut corners on installation depth, spacing, or technique
  • Offer a weaker warranty
  • Leave you with an inadequate repair that requires rework in 5 to 10 years

The best value is typically the mid-range bid from a company with strong references, quality materials, an experienced crew, and a robust warranty.

Understanding the Contract

Before signing anything, review the contract carefully. It should include:

Scope of Work

A detailed description of every element of the repair: method, number and location of piers or anchors, brand and specification of materials, whether lifting will be attempted, excavation and backfill scope, and any restoration work (concrete patching, landscaping replacement).

Timeline

Start date, estimated completion date, and provisions for weather delays. The contract should specify how delays are handled and whether you will be notified.

Payment Terms

A reasonable payment structure typically looks like:

  • 10 to 15 percent deposit upon signing (to secure scheduling and order materials)
  • Balance due upon satisfactory completion of the work

Be cautious of contracts requiring more than 25 percent upfront. Never pay in full before the work is complete. Some states have laws governing maximum deposit amounts for home improvement contracts — check your state’s regulations.

Warranty Terms

The warranty should be clearly stated in the contract, not referenced as a separate document you have not seen. If the warranty is a separate document, request it before signing the contract and attach it as an exhibit.

Permits

The contract should specify who is responsible for obtaining permits and what the permit cost is. In most cases, the contractor should handle permit applications as part of their scope.

Change Order Process

The contract should describe how additional work or changes are handled. Any work beyond the original scope should require a written change order signed by both parties before the work begins. Verbal agreements to “just add that while we’re here” are a recipe for billing disputes.

Dispute Resolution

Note whether the contract includes an arbitration clause. Mandatory binding arbitration limits your legal options if something goes wrong. Some homeowner advocates recommend negotiating this clause out of the contract, as arbitration often favors the contractor.

Checking References and Reviews

Online Reviews

Check multiple sources:

  • Google Business Profile — The most comprehensive source of recent reviews
  • BBB (Better Business Bureau) — Valuable for complaint history and resolution patterns, not just the letter grade
  • Yelp — Mixed reliability but useful for identifying patterns
  • Angi (formerly Angie’s List) — Verified reviews from platform users
  • State contractor board — Check for formal complaints, disciplinary actions, or license suspensions

What to Look for in Reviews

Do not just count stars. Read the reviews and look for patterns:

  • Consistent praise for specific qualities (communication, cleanliness, timeliness) suggests genuine strengths
  • Consistent complaints about specific issues (hidden charges, poor cleanup, warranty disputes) suggest genuine problems
  • Responses to negative reviews — How a company handles criticism reveals their character. Defensive, dismissive, or combative responses are warning signs
  • Fake review patterns — Clusters of 5-star reviews posted within a few days, all from accounts with no other reviews, suggest manufactured reviews

Reference Calls

When you contact provided references, ask:

  1. What was the scope of your foundation repair?
  2. Was the work completed on time and within the quoted budget?
  3. How was communication during the project?
  4. Did you encounter any unexpected charges?
  5. How does the repair look today? Any issues since completion?
  6. Have you had any warranty claims? If so, how were they handled?
  7. Would you hire this company again?

If a reference hesitates on any of these questions, follow up. Silence often speaks louder than complaints.

What a Good Warranty Looks Like

Warranties vary enormously in the foundation repair industry. Here is what to look for.

The Best Warranties Include

  • Lifetime coverage on the pier or anchor system (materials and labor)
  • Transferability to subsequent homeowners at no cost or a nominal transfer fee
  • Manufacturer backing in addition to the installer’s warranty
  • Clear, specific coverage language — “We warrant that the piers installed will prevent further settlement of the supported foundation sections for the life of the structure”
  • Reasonable exclusions — limited to things genuinely outside the company’s control (natural disasters, subsequent construction, homeowner modifications)
  • No mandatory maintenance requirements that are designed to be difficult to prove compliance with (some warranties require “annual inspections” that the company charges $200+ for, creating a revenue stream disguised as a warranty condition)

Warranties to Be Wary Of

  • “Limited lifetime warranty” without clear definition of what “limited” means
  • Warranties that exclude labor — covering only the physical pier or anchor hardware but not the cost to service or replace it
  • Non-transferable warranties — these suggest the company does not stand behind the long-term performance of their work
  • Warranties contingent on purchasing a “maintenance plan” — essentially requiring you to pay annually to keep your warranty active
  • Warranties from companies with less than 5 years of operating history — the warranty is only as good as the company’s ability to honor it

License Verification by State

Because licensing requirements and regulatory bodies differ significantly by state, here is guidance on verifying a contractor’s credentials in some of the states with the highest foundation repair demand:

Texas — Requires registration with the Texas Real Estate Commission (TREC) for residential work. No separate “foundation repair” license exists, but companies performing structural work should hold a general contractor registration. Check your contractor at the TREC website.

California — Requires a C-29 (Masonry) or C-61/D-29 (Structural Pest Control) license from the Contractors State License Board (CSLB) depending on the type of foundation work. Verify at the CSLB lookup tool.

Florida — Requires a Certified General Contractor (CGC) or Certified Building Contractor (CBC) license from the Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation.

Georgia — Requires a Residential or General Contractor license for projects over $2,500. Georgia has a Nonresidential and Residential contractor licensing division.

Alabama — Requires a General Contractor license from the Alabama Licensing Board for General Contractors for projects over $50,000. Smaller projects may not require licensing, making your own vetting even more critical.

Each state’s regulatory approach is different, and not all states protect homeowners equally. In states with minimal licensing requirements, your personal due diligence matters even more.

Protecting Yourself Through the Process

Before Work Begins

  • Verify the contractor’s license and insurance independently — do not rely on documents they provide
  • Check for liens or judgments against the company through your county clerk’s office
  • Ensure permits have been pulled and the permit number is documented
  • Take dated photographs of your home’s current condition — interior and exterior, focusing on cracks, floors, walls, and landscaping near the work area

During the Work

  • Monitor progress daily. You do not need to supervise, but walk the site each evening and ask the foreman about the day’s progress.
  • Document everything with photographs — pier installation, excavation depth, equipment used, crew size
  • Do not approve change orders verbally. If the crew discovers unexpected conditions requiring additional work, get the change order in writing with a revised cost before approving.

After Completion

  • Do a final walkthrough with the foreman or project manager before making final payment
  • Obtain all documentation — warranty certificate, permit records, engineering report, as-built drawings showing pier locations and depths
  • Monitor for 6 to 12 months — look for new cracks, doors that start sticking again, or other signs of continued movement
  • Schedule your warranty follow-up if the contract includes one

Getting Started

The best foundation repair starts with the right contractor. Take the time to research, compare, and verify before committing to any company.

  1. Get a structural engineer’s assessment if your potential repair is over $5,000
  2. Get at least 3 estimates from licensed, insured contractors
  3. Verify every contractor’s license, insurance, and references independently
  4. Compare bids on scope, quality, and warranty — not just price
  5. Read the contract completely before signing

Visit our Get Quotes page to connect with licensed foundation repair contractors in your area. Getting multiple estimates is not just about finding the best price — it is about finding the best combination of expertise, quality, and value for your specific situation.

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