Foundation Inspection Guide: What to Expect & What It Costs

Introduction: Why a Foundation Inspection Is the Best Money You Will Spend

A foundation inspection is where guesswork ends and facts begin. Whether you have noticed warning signs of foundation problems in your home, you are buying a property, or you simply want peace of mind, a professional foundation inspection provides the measured, documented evidence you need to make informed decisions.

Foundation repair is expensive. The average residential project costs $5,000 to $15,000, and complex jobs can exceed $30,000. An inspection costing $300 to $800 is the most cost-effective way to determine whether you actually need repairs, what kind of repairs are appropriate, and whether a contractor’s proposal is reasonable. It is also the best way to discover that you do not need repairs at all — a finding that saves you the cost of unnecessary work and the stress of a problem that does not exist.

This guide walks you through every aspect of the foundation inspection process: when to schedule one, who should perform it, what they will examine, how long it takes, what the report contains, how to prepare your home, and what red flags to watch for in the results.

When to Get a Foundation Inspection

Not every crack or sticking door requires a professional inspection. But certain situations make an inspection not just advisable but essential.

Definite Triggers

You are buying a home. A foundation-specific inspection should be part of your due diligence for any home purchase, particularly in regions with known soil challenges like Texas, Oklahoma, Mississippi, or parts of California. The standard home inspection includes a visual check of the foundation, but it is not a substitute for a dedicated structural evaluation. Most general home inspectors are not structural engineers and do not perform elevation surveys or load analysis.

You see multiple warning signs simultaneously. A single hairline crack is not an emergency. But when you notice cracks plus sticking doors plus uneven floors — especially on the same side of the house — the convergence of symptoms strongly suggests active foundation movement. See our 10 warning signs guide for the full list.

A crack is growing. Any crack that you have documented as widening over weeks or months indicates active movement. Active movement means the conditions causing the problem are ongoing and the damage will continue to accumulate without intervention.

Your basement wall is bowing. This is one of the few foundation symptoms that should prompt immediate action. A bowing wall is under active lateral stress and can progress to failure, particularly during wet seasons when soil pressure peaks.

You are selling your home. A pre-listing foundation inspection is a strategic move. If the inspection is clean, you have documentation to reassure buyers. If it reveals issues, you can address them proactively rather than having them surface during the buyer’s inspection — which typically results in worse negotiating leverage and rushed decision-making.

Situations Where You Can Wait and Monitor

A single, narrow, stable crack. If you have one vertical or diagonal crack that is less than 1/4 inch wide and has not changed in six months of monitoring, it is likely a normal shrinkage or minor settling crack. Document it, seal it if needed, and check it seasonally.

Seasonal door sticking. Doors that stick in summer humidity and operate normally in winter are responding to moisture in the wood, not foundation movement. This is normal and does not require inspection.

Hairline floor slab cracks. Cracks in a basement floor or garage slab that are hairline thin, without heaving or displacement, are almost always shrinkage cracks. The floor slab is typically not a structural element and minor cracking does not affect foundation performance.

Who Performs Foundation Inspections

This is one of the most important distinctions in foundation evaluation, and most homeowners are not aware there are fundamentally different types of inspectors with different qualifications and different incentives.

Structural Engineers

A licensed structural engineer (Professional Engineer, or PE) is the gold standard for foundation evaluation. Structural engineers have completed university-level engineering education, passed rigorous licensing examinations, and are bound by professional ethics codes that require objective, fact-based assessment.

What they offer:

Complete independence from repair companies — no financial incentive to recommend work
Measured, quantified assessments including elevation surveys and load calculations
Written reports that carry legal weight and are accepted by lenders, insurers, and courts
The ability to specify exactly what repair is needed, giving you a scope of work to bid out to contractors
Ongoing monitoring programs if the situation warrants observation rather than immediate repair

What they cost: Structural engineer foundation inspections typically range from $300 to $800 for residential properties, depending on the size of the home, the complexity of the foundation system, and your geographic area.

Service Level	Typical Cost
Visual inspection with written letter	$300 - $500
Comprehensive inspection with floor elevation survey	$500 - $700
Full evaluation with soil analysis and engineering calculations	$600 - $800
Follow-up or monitoring visit	$200 - $400

Foundation Repair Company Inspectors

Most foundation repair companies offer free inspections. A company representative — who may be a trained inspector, a sales representative, or sometimes both — visits your home, examines the visible signs of damage, and provides an assessment along with a repair proposal and cost estimate.

What they offer:

No upfront cost
A repair estimate during the same visit
Practical experience with local soil conditions and common failure modes
Knowledge of specific repair methods and their applicability

The inherent limitation: The person inspecting your home works for a company that generates revenue by performing repairs. This does not mean their assessment is dishonest — many foundation repair professionals are highly skilled and ethical. But the business model creates a structural conflict of interest. Research on foundation repair estimates consistently shows that repair company assessments tend to identify more extensive problems and recommend more costly solutions than independent engineers evaluating the same property.

The Recommended Approach

For any foundation concern that may involve significant cost, use both types of inspection strategically:

Start with a structural engineer ($300 to $800) to get an independent, unbiased diagnosis and repair specification.
Use the engineer’s report as the basis for getting repair estimates from multiple foundation companies.

This approach costs a few hundred dollars more at the outset but protects you from paying for unnecessary repairs and ensures that the contractors bidding on your project are all pricing the same scope of work. It also gives you powerful leverage in evaluating their proposals — you know exactly what the engineer said is needed, so you can identify any contractor who is recommending more or less than what the engineering analysis supports.

What They Check: The Inspection Process

A thorough foundation inspection follows a systematic, multi-phase process. Whether performed by an engineer or a repair company, the inspection should cover all of the following areas. If it does not, you are getting an incomplete evaluation.

Exterior Inspection (30 to 60 Minutes)

The inspector walks the entire perimeter of the home, examining:

Foundation walls. Every visible section of foundation wall is checked for cracks, displacement, deterioration, and signs of movement. The inspector notes the type, location, direction, length, and width of every crack. They look for horizontal displacement (one side of a crack pushed inward or outward relative to the other) and vertical displacement (one side higher than the other).

Grading and drainage. The ground surface around the foundation should slope away from the house at a minimum grade of 6 inches over the first 10 feet. The inspector evaluates whether surface water is being directed away from or toward the foundation. Poor grading is the single most common contributing factor to foundation problems.

Gutters and downspouts. Roof water must be collected and discharged at least 4 to 6 feet from the foundation. Missing gutters, clogged gutters, disconnected downspouts, and downspouts that discharge directly at the foundation base are all noted.

Vegetation. Trees and large shrubs near the foundation can affect soil moisture levels. The inspector notes the species, size, and proximity of vegetation. Large trees within 15 to 20 feet of the foundation can draw significant moisture from the soil, causing clay soils to shrink and the foundation to settle.

Concrete flatwork. Driveways, sidewalks, patios, and stoops are checked for settlement relative to the foundation. Settled flatwork can redirect water toward the foundation and is sometimes the first visible indicator of soil problems in the area.

Brick veneer and siding. The exterior cladding is checked for crack patterns that indicate underlying structural movement. Stair-step cracks in brick, separated siding panels, and gaps at window and door frames are documented.

Interior Inspection (30 to 60 Minutes)

Inside the home, the inspector examines:

Doors and windows. Every door and window is tested for operation. The inspector checks for sticking, binding, failure to latch, and uneven gaps between the door or window and its frame. A door frame that is out of square confirms that the wall it is mounted in has shifted.

Wall and ceiling surfaces. Drywall, plaster, and other finishes are examined for cracks. The inspector documents the location, direction, width, and length of each crack and assesses whether they are likely caused by structural movement or by normal shrinkage and aging.

Floors. The inspector checks for visible slope, bounce, soft spots, and areas where flooring has separated from baseboards or other finishes. Tile floors are checked for cracked tiles and separated grout lines that may indicate slab movement.

Cabinets, countertops, and built-ins. These are checked for separation from walls, which can indicate the wall is moving while the cabinet or counter remains in place (or vice versa).

Floor Elevation Survey (20 to 40 Minutes)

This is the most technically important part of the inspection, and it is what separates a professional evaluation from a visual-only walk-through.

Using a manometer (a precision water-level device), laser level, or digital altimeter, the inspector measures floor elevations at a grid of points throughout the home. Measurements are typically taken every 8 to 10 feet in both directions, plus at all critical structural points (corners, load-bearing wall intersections, and areas of visible distress).

The elevation survey produces a contour map of your foundation showing exactly where it is high, where it is low, and by how much. This data is the objective, quantified basis for any repair recommendation. Without it, recommendations are based on visual observation alone, which is inherently subjective.

What the numbers mean:

Less than 1 inch of total differential across the foundation: Generally considered within acceptable tolerances, though localized areas of concern may still exist.
1 to 1.5 inches of differential: Warrants monitoring and possibly repair, depending on the cause and whether the movement is active.
More than 1.5 inches of differential: Almost always requires active repair. At this level of displacement, structural stress has typically produced visible damage to finishes and may be affecting structural framing.

Below-Grade Inspection (15 to 30 Minutes)

For homes with basements, the inspector examines the foundation walls from the inside:

Horizontal cracks indicating lateral soil pressure and wall bowing
Measurement of any inward wall displacement
Water intrusion evidence: stains, efflorescence, active seepage, mold
Condition of the wall-floor joint
Any previous repair work and its current condition

For homes with crawl spaces, the inspector enters (if safely accessible) and checks:

Pier and beam condition: settlement, rot, termite damage, inadequate spacing
Floor joist condition: sagging, splitting, sistered repairs
Moisture levels: standing water, saturated soil, condensation, wood moisture content
Vapor barrier condition (if present)
Ventilation adequacy

For slab-on-grade homes, below-grade inspection is limited to what can be observed at exposed foundation edges and through any access points (plumbing cleanouts, utility penetrations).

How Long the Inspection Takes

A thorough residential foundation inspection takes 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on the size and complexity of the home.

Home Size	Foundation Type	Typical Duration
Under 1,500 sq ft	Slab-on-grade	1 to 1.5 hours
1,500 - 2,500 sq ft	Slab-on-grade	1.5 to 2 hours
1,500 - 2,500 sq ft	Basement or crawl space	2 to 2.5 hours
Over 2,500 sq ft	Any type	2.5 to 3 hours
Multi-story or complex layout	Any type	3+ hours

Be wary of an inspection that takes less than an hour for a standard-sized home. A 30-minute walk-through cannot include a proper elevation survey and is unlikely to catch subtle but important indicators.

What the Report Includes

A professional inspection report — particularly from a structural engineer — should contain the following sections. If you receive a report missing any of these elements, ask for clarification.

Findings

A detailed, room-by-room documentation of all observations: cracks (with measurements), door and window operation issues, floor conditions, exterior observations, and below-grade conditions. This section should be specific and quantified, not vague. “Diagonal crack in southeast bedroom, upper right corner of window frame, 3/16 inch wide, 14 inches long” is useful. “Some cracking observed” is not.

Elevation Data

The measured floor elevations presented in a data table and ideally a color-coded contour map or grid. The report should clearly state the maximum differential (the difference between the highest and lowest measured points) and identify the area of greatest concern.

Probable Cause

The engineer’s professional opinion on what is causing the observed movement. Common causes include expansive clay soil, inadequate drainage, plumbing leaks beneath the slab, tree root moisture extraction, original construction defects (poor soil compaction, inadequate footing design), and natural soil consolidation. Identifying the cause is essential because effective repair must address the cause, not just the symptoms.

Recommendations

Specific, actionable recommendations. These may range from “no repairs needed; monitor and re-evaluate in 12 months” to “install 10 steel push piers along the south and east perimeter at 6-foot spacing to stabilize and lift the settled section.” The recommendations should match the severity and cause of the observed conditions.

Urgency Assessment

Whether the situation requires immediate action, can be planned over the coming months, or is stable enough to simply monitor with periodic re-evaluation. Not every foundation issue requires immediate repair, and a good report will tell you when waiting is acceptable and when it is not.

How to Prepare for an Inspection

A small amount of preparation on your part helps the inspector work efficiently and ensures nothing important is missed.

Before the Appointment

Clear 3 to 4 feet along all exterior foundation walls. Move stored items, firewood, potted plants, and debris away from the foundation so the inspector can see and access the entire perimeter.
Ensure crawl space access is clear. If your home has a crawl space, locate the access point and make sure it is not blocked by storage or landscaping.
Clear basement walls. Move furniture, shelving, and stored items away from basement walls so the inspector can see the full wall surface and check for cracks and bowing.
Unlock all rooms. The inspector needs access to every room for the elevation survey and interior assessment. Unlock interior doors, gates, and any outbuildings on the foundation.
Gather your documentation. If you have been tracking cracks, photographing symptoms, or monitoring changes, share this with the inspector. Historical data showing how conditions have progressed is extremely valuable.

Information to Have Ready

The age of the home
Any known previous foundation work or repairs
When you first noticed symptoms and how they have changed
Any plumbing issues (leaks, sewer backups, low water pressure)
Recent landscaping changes (tree removal, new plantings, irrigation installation)
Any pending or recent construction near your property

Red Flags in Inspection Reports

Not all inspections are created equal. Be cautious if you encounter any of the following:

No elevation data. An inspection that recommends piering or other major structural repairs without a measured elevation survey is not adequately supported. Visual observation alone cannot quantify the extent of settlement or distinguish between uniform and differential movement.

Vague language without measurements. Phrases like “significant cracking observed” or “evidence of movement” without specific measurements (crack widths, displacement distances, elevation differentials) are not actionable and do not allow you to evaluate the recommendation.

Immediate pressure to commit. Any inspector or company that pressures you to sign a repair contract during or immediately after the inspection is prioritizing their sales process over your decision-making process. A legitimate inspection stands on its own, and you should have time to review the findings, get second opinions, and compare proposals.

Diagnosing the cause without evidence. If the report attributes movement to “expansive clay soil” but no soil testing was performed, or claims “plumbing leak” without a plumbing test, the cause is an assumption, not a finding. The assumed cause may be correct, but it should be identified as an assumption and confirmed before expensive repairs are designed around it.

Failure to distinguish active from dormant movement. This distinction is critical. Active movement means the foundation is currently shifting and damage will continue. Dormant movement means the foundation shifted in the past but has stabilized. Dormant movement may require cosmetic repairs but not structural intervention. An inspection that does not address whether movement is active or dormant is incomplete.

One-size-fits-all recommendations. If the inspector recommends the same repair method regardless of the specific conditions found, be skeptical. Different problems require different solutions. A report that recommends push piers for a bowing wall (which needs wall anchors or carbon fiber) or carbon fiber for active settlement (which needs piering) is applying the wrong solution to the problem.

DIY Pre-Inspection Checklist

Before spending money on a professional inspection, conduct your own walk-through to assess whether one is warranted. This checklist covers the key items to evaluate.

Exterior

Walk the full perimeter of the foundation and photograph any cracks
Measure and record the width of each crack
Check whether soil is graded to slope away from the foundation on all sides
Note any areas where water pools near the foundation after rain
Inspect gutters and downspouts for proper function and discharge distance
Look for gaps between the foundation and siding, brick, or trim
Note any trees with trunks within 15 feet of the foundation
Check for chimney lean or separation from the house

Interior

Test every door for sticking, dragging, or failure to latch
Test every window for binding, gaps, or failure to lock
Roll a marble on hard floors in each room and note if it rolls consistently in one direction
Use a 4-foot level to check floors for slope in multiple rooms
Photograph any wall or ceiling cracks with a ruler for scale
Check for gaps between walls and ceilings, walls and floors, and at trim joints
Look for nail pops in walls and ceilings
Note any new or worsening symptoms since you last checked

Below the Home

Check basement walls for horizontal cracks or bowing (sight along the wall from one end)
Look for water stains, efflorescence, or active moisture on basement walls
If you have a crawl space, visually inspect piers and beams for settling or damage (from the access point, without entering if unsafe)
Note any standing water, saturated soil, or musty smell

If your DIY assessment reveals two or more items of concern, a professional inspection is a sound investment. If you find bowing basement walls, wide or growing cracks, or significant floor slope, schedule the inspection promptly.

The Cost of Not Inspecting

Homeowners sometimes defer inspections because of the $300 to $800 cost. This is a false economy. Foundation problems are progressive — they get worse and more expensive over time, never better.

A foundation that needs 6 piers today ($9,000 to $18,000) may need 12 piers plus wall stabilization in three years ($20,000 to $40,000). The $500 you saved by not inspecting today could cost you $15,000 or more in additional repair scope down the road.

Conversely, an inspection that confirms your foundation is sound is $500 well spent for the peace of mind. And an inspection that reveals a minor issue you can monitor — rather than a major problem requiring immediate repair — saves you from unnecessary stress and potentially unnecessary spending.

Getting Started

If you are ready to schedule a foundation inspection, start by searching for licensed structural engineers in your area through your state’s professional engineering board website. Look for engineers who specifically list residential foundation evaluation in their services.

You can also request free estimates from licensed foundation repair contractors in your area. While a contractor’s free inspection is not a substitute for an independent engineering evaluation, it provides a useful starting point and gives you an initial assessment at no cost. Getting assessments from multiple sources — one engineer and two or three repair companies — gives you the broadest perspective and the strongest basis for making a confident, informed decision about your foundation.

For more information on what specific repair methods may be recommended and what they cost, explore our repair methods comparison guide. And for help evaluating the contractors who will perform the work, see our guide on choosing a foundation contractor.